Life Is Too Short For Bad Wine

With that ethos in mind, I present:

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Canalicchio Di Sopra 2010 Brunello

Among the top producers in Montalcino, Canalicchio Di Sopra did not disappoint in 2010. The 2010 Brunello is full bodied with well-integrated medium+ tannin and crisp acidity. The result is a complex, well-balanced wine that while youthful, is also polished, ripe, and elegant. It has excellent varietal character and depth. The intense red fruit aromas, especially red and black cherry, evolve in the glass with perfume-floral quality, along with touches of spice, leather and sandalwood.

Not for sipping alone, this is a wine made to drink with food (and to share with lucky friends). It was a perfect compliment to whole grain rigatoni with pork ragu and fresh ricotta.

Welcome to flavor country!

White Bean Dip with Roasted Garlic & Rosemary

dip4webServings: 4

I love white bean dip. It is a very tasty & healthy treat that is easy to make.  It is a great hors d’oeuvre because it taste even better when made in advance, and is excellent leftover.

Like most Italian fare, the ingredients are the main actors. The quality of the olive oil is of paramount importance. The dip pairs well with crostini and crisp white wine.

I have tried many different iterations of this recipe, and this is my favorite. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

 1 15 ounce jar of white beans (rinse several times)

2 teaspoons minced rosemary

2 ½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon cumin

3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil

4 cloves (roasted) garlic

Salt & pepper to taste

Roasted Garlic:

1 garlic bulb

Tin foil

Pre-heat the oven to 400 Degrees.  Remove the papery outside of garlic without taking apart the bulb. Cut-off the top fifth of the bulb, exposing the inside of the cloves. Liberally drizzle with olive oil, wrap in aluminum foil, and seal it closed (be sure to cook inside a pan to prevent any excess oil from dripping). Cook for 40 minutes, or until a fork can easily pass through and the garlic has a light gold tinge).

In a food processor, add rinsed beans, roasted garlic, lemon, olive oil, cumin, rosemary, salt and pepper to taste and pulse mix to a smooth consistency. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl, smooth-out with the backside of a spoon, dress with olive oil and rosemary.

Author’s Note: Sauvignon Blanc pairs particularly well with the flavor of garlic.  Texturally, the acidity contrasts well with the creaminess of the dip.  Thank me later.

 

Dining In Tuscany: Albergaccio

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Albergaccio

Via Fiorentina, 63 Castellina in Chianti, SI 53011
PH (39) 0577 741042
www.albergacciocast.com
posta@albergacciocast.com
Closed: Sundays, and Wednesday/Thursday for lunch.
Directions: From Siena, take the Chiantigiana; as you get in to Castellina look for signs for the restaurant on your left, and via Fiorentina.

North of Siena, just outside of Castellina in Chianti, is the Michelin star award-winning restaurant Albergaccio owned by Francesco Cacciatori and the chef, Sonia Visman. Opened in 1989, Albergaccio is an elegantly restored farmhouse with beautiful views and a quaint interior. It has an expansive wine list of 313 labels, with many of the wines representing good values as well as rare finds. The food is creative and beautifully presented with service that is friendly and professional. The owner, Francesco, is a fixture in the dining room and will help you navigate the menu and excellent wine list. I first dined at Albergaccio with my father, an enjoyable respite from a cold day. Whether it was the rustic charm of a blazing fire during the winter or the bucolic views, the restaurant offered an idyllic setting. There is also an expansive terrace during the summer for dining alfresco. While the atmosphere is lovely, it is eclipsed by the quality of the food.

The following recipe is a delicious and creative take on pumpkin soup that intrigued me. The crispy polenta croutons set off the sweet and creamy goodness of the soup—a beautiful combination.

 

Crema Di Zucca Gialla Con Crostini Di Polenta
Pumpkin Soup with Polenta Croutons
Primo Piatto (First course)
Servings: 4

28 ounces peeled pumpkin, coarsely chopped in to small cubes (1/2 inch)

2 medium size skinned yams or sweet potatoes, coarsely chopped into small cubes (1/2 inch)

1 finely chopped white onion

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 ½ ounces unsalted butter

4 cups vegetable stock

6 finely chopped basil leaves

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

 

Add the olive oil to a deep saucepan, and cook the onion on low-medium heat until soft and translucent, approximately 8–10 minutes.

Add the potatoes and the pumpkin, and cook together with the onion for about 5 minutes, then cover with the vegetable stock.  Add the sugar and the basil leaves. Cover and simmer for about 1 hour on low heat. Stir periodically.

After one hour, add the butter and whisk everything until you obtain a smooth and delicious creamy soup.

Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with croutons.

 

Corn Polenta Croutons
Ingredients

10 ½ ounces corn meal

4 cups water

1 ½ teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

 

Boil a pot of water. At the boiling point, add the salt and then the corn meal, continually stirring to prevent it from sticking or burning. Stir the polenta continuously until very thick, about 20 minutes, although time varies depending on the corn meal used (you may add some additional water if it thickens very quickly).

Coat a glass ovenproof dish (7” x 11”x 1-1/2”) with the butter. When the polenta is ready, pour the polenta into the dish and spread so it is no more than 1/3 of an inch deep and let it cool for several hours (after it reaches room temperature place pan in the fridge).

Slice the polenta in strips, and then into small cubes, Dust them in flour and deep-fry them in peanut oil (use a deep pot with at least an inch of oil). Cook for 8 minutes or until polenta has browned and become crispy.

Add the warm, fried corn polenta cubes to the creamy pumpkin soup, and enjoy!

Author’s Note: Pumpkin is available only in the fall, but this soup is delicious much of the year. Try substituting butternut squash, which is available for longer periods, and prepare the same way. If you are looking for an appropriate wine, this dish pairs particularly well with an off-dry Gewurtraminer or Riesling from France or Austria. 

Dining In Tuscany: Arnolfo

Arnolfo
Via XX Settembre 50
Colle Val D’Elsa, SI
PH (39) 0577 920549
www.arnolfo.com
arnolfo@arnolfo.com
Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays.
Directions: The historic part of Colle Val D’Elsa is small and only for temporary parking. It is best to park in the main parking lot at the base of the town. Via XX Settembre is the main drag leading up the hill, with Arnolfo about halfway to the top, allowing you to burn some calories in preparation for the feast to come.

A short drive southeast from San Gimignano is the town of Colle Val D’Elsa, famous for its production of crystal stemware. Much of Colle Val D’Elsa is industrial, but the upper part called Colle Alta retains the original medieval architecture. Also famous for being the birthplace for Arnolfo di Cambio, a well-known sculptor and architect, the town is now known in the gourmet world as the home of Arnolfo, the 2-Michelin-star restaurant owned by the Trovato brothers, Giovanni, the business manager and Gaetano, the chef.

Dining at Arnolfo is an elaborate experience. The dining room has an intimate, elegant feel, and the service is first rate. I went there with big expectations and a bigger appetite, and they fully delivered. When I was faced with deciding between the fish and meat-tasting menu, I was torn. Giovanni suggested the fish menu, offering to replace one fish dish with one of the restaurant’s signature meat dishes, the Suckling Pig. That sounded like a good compromise to me, but then Gaetano, the chef, interceded. He offered to add the Suckling Pig to the complete fish menu—gratis. Who was I to say no?

The one argument I have heard against Arnolfo is that it isn’t truly Tuscan, as it is too fussy. The whole question of haute cuisine versus rustic fare I’ve always found to be of little significance. There is certainly reason enough to love both—it really depends on your mood. Both cuisines have their place in my heart and stomach. Arnolfo isn’t trying to be a trattoria; it is intentionally more refined (and more pricey). He utilizes French cooking techniques, and yes, the food is as much about sophisticated presentation and texture as it is about flavor. But this is all part of the experience, so if you are looking for simple, rustic dishes and laidback service, perhaps this isn’t the spot for you. However, chef Trovato uses local ingredients, putting an elegant spin on many typically Tuscan dishes like the aforementioned signature dish: Suckling Pig with crispy, flaky skin and juicy pork medallions married with slightly spicy, sweet apples. Squisito!

I don’t know whether it was a slow winter day, or whether I look too thin, but the kitchen kept feeding me beyond the already ambitious tasting menu. Besides the addition of the Suckling Pig to the 7-course fish menu, there was often a “pre-this” and a “post-that.” (I only made it halfway through the second dessert before I realized that no matter how tempting the delicacy before me, I had simply reached my limit.) Each dish was created with the purpose of combining interesting flavors and textures, which made the meal theatrical, unfolding surprises not only between each course, but also within each dish. That is part of the charm of experiencing a tasting menu at Arnolfo.

The wine list is extensive with a wide range of Italians as well as French alternatives. To pair with the fish tasting menu, I went with the Sanct Valentin Sauvignon Blanc from the cooler climate of Alto Adige in Northern Italy. Sauvignon Blanc pairs well with many foods, and Sanct Valentin is a perennial favorite. Forgive me for saying so, but I usually will pick a top white wine from Alto Adige or Friuli over a white wine from Tuscany every day of the week and twice on Sunday!

Below are two hearty recipes from Chef Gaetano that are meant to be served together as a creative take on lamb and potatoes using Tuscan ingredients and fragrant spices.

Author’s note:  If you do want to try a local white wine, the only Tuscan white DOCG is Vernaccia Di San Gimignano. Look for the Panizzi label—this winery makes a good quality Vernaccia that is refreshing, flowery, and crisp.

 

Variazione di Agnello in in Salsa Al Brunello Di Montalcino
Rack of Lamb 2 Ways in Brunello Di Montalcino Sauce
Secondo Piatto (Main dish)
Servings: 4-6

2 racks of lamb with 8 ribs each  (ask your butcher to de-bone and butterfly one of the racks for you).

1 cup pitted and finely chopped Tagiasca olives (alternatively use Nicoise Olives)

20 leaves finely chopped basil

2 large cloves coarsely chopped garlic

1 fresh rosemary branch

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Culinary string

 

For the sauce:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 medium-sized coarsely chopped yellow onions

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 whole 3-inch cinnamon stick

1 whole star anise (alternatively use teaspoon of ground anise)

1 bay leaf

2 whole peppercorns

2 dried juniper berries

1/2 bottle Brunello di Montalcino

2 cups veal stock

 

Mix the basil and chopped olives together. Unroll and flatten the butterflied rack of lamb and spread the basil and olive mix evenly on the inside portion (fatty side facing out). Roll it tightly, and tie with string every 1-1/2 inch.

Sprinkle salt and pepper to taste on both racks and rub the seasoning into the lamb.

Place oven rack on center height, and preheat the oven to 420˚ F.

 

In a large ovenproof Dutch oven (5 quart recommended) fry the onions for 8–10 minutes or until soft and translucent. Add the cloves, cinnamon, anise, bay leaf, peppercorns, juniper berries, and star anise along with the Brunello di Montalcino. Cook on medium heat with the pan uncovered, allowing the alcohol in the wine to evaporate and reduce (approximately 5–7 minutes). Add the veal stock and continue to reduce on low to medium heat (additional 10 minutes), or until it becomes more viscous.

Meanwhile, in a separate large frying pan, heat the olive oil with the garlic and rosemary. Sear both rack of lamb on high heat for 2 minutes on all sides, browning the outside. (Discard garlic and rosemary.)

Add the lamb to the sauce, cover the saucepan and put in oven. Cook for 12–18 minutes (12 for rare, 18 for medium for the bone-in rack). Remove the bone-in rack of lamb first, and allow the stuffed rack to continue to cook for an additional 5 minutes.

After removing from pan, let the lamb sit for 5–7 minutes covered in foil before slicing. Meanwhile, pass the sauce through a sieve removing the solids, and pour over the carved meat piping hot. Enjoy.

 

Patate Ripiene Con Tartufi Neri
Double Stuffed Black Truffle Potatoes
Contorno (Side dish)
Servings: 4

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4 large russet potatoes

1/2 stick unsalted butter (1/4 cup)

1/4 cup shaved black truffles

1/3 cup cream

1 tablespoon diced chives

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

Salt and pepper to taste

 

Preheat oven to 400˚ F and set the oven rack to center height. Wash the outer skin of the potatoes, poke several times with a fork, and cook for approximately one hour. Test the potatoes by pushing a toothpick through the thickest portion of the potato. It should reach the center with little resistance.

Allow the potatoes to cool for 5 minutes. Cut the potato in half lengthwise. Using a spoon, scoop out the pulp of the potato. In a bowl mix the pulp with the cream, butter, nutmeg, chives, and the truffles (leave enough truffle to dress the potatoes) and roughly mash or “smash” the potatoes with a fork until all ingredients are evenly combined. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Using a small spoon, re-stuff the potato skins with potato pulp, and bake at 350˚ F for 20 minutes. Dress the top of the potatoes with the remaining black truffle. Serve immediately.

 

Culinary Treasures: Gelato & Olio

North of Siena

Close to the northwest boundary of the province of Siena is the commune and medieval stronghold of San Gimignano. This small town has long been appreciated for its beautiful towers, but currently is acknowledged more as a tourist trap. In fact, a local pointed out to me that nobody actually lives in the town, and if you have been there, you’ll have noticed that almost every store caters to tourists. It is curious, therefore, that located within this mecca for Japanese bus tours is some of the best gelato in Tuscany—a truly unexpected delight. 

Gelato
Gelateria Di Piazza
Piazza Della Cisterna, 4 53037 San Gimignano, SI
PH (39) 0577 942244
Directions: In the Main Piazza.

There is always an exception to the rule. I generally recommend that you avoid any restaurant (or in this case a gelateria) located in a major piazza, and I double down on that statement when it comes to San Gimignano. However, in this case my advice would have been wrong. While even the name, Gelateria Di Piazza, reeks of a tourist trap, this gelateria owned by Sergio Dondoli makes sublime, creamy gelatos from all natural, fresh ingredients with amazing flavor. I tried the pistachio, chocolate, and hazelnut, all of which were superb. The pistachio was especially intense. They explained to me that it was made from fresh pistachios sourced directly from Sicily. Generally, I don’t have a sweet tooth and I don’t eat much ice cream, but in this case I will take two scoops. If you love gelato, you will be well-served to stop and taste Mr. Dondoli’s creations. They are all delectable!

Olives

Olive Oil
Podere Cogno
Castellina in Chianti, SI 53011
PH (39) 0577 740978
www.poderecogno.com
marcomatteigni@tin.it
Directions: About 1 km outside the village of Fonterutoli, turn left onto a white country road following the sign for Caggiolo and Caggio. At the first crossroads is the sign for Cogno, which you will reach in about 1-1/2 km. Visits by appointment only.

Marco Matteigni, the man behind Podere Cogno olive oil, is a salt of the earth kind of guy. I spent a morning discussing with him his olive oil, politics, and life—all before tasting the oil (which by the way is among the top olive oils in Tuscany). He is not the type to brag. He noted that olive oil is unlike wine, suggesting it is a simpler equation. But if you consider the amount of olive oil produced in Italy, the quality of Podere Cogno is anything but the norm.

The Cogno estate includes 12 hectares (2.4 acres per hectare) of organically farmed olive groves, growing Frantoio, Leccio, and Corratina olives. The extra virgin olive oil they produce is intensely green (almost emerald) and rich. Mr. Matteigni noted that the quality of his oil is a result of three factors: the quality of the olives, the picking/milling process (by hand, pressing the same day, keeping low temperature, and preventing oxidation), and careful storage and bottling. Mr. Matteigni told me that the intensity of fruit comes from picking the olives when a third of them remain green. He further noted the importance of a modern frantoio (olive press).  His new press utilizes both nitrogen to protect the crushed olives from oxidation, and blades to macerate the olives, eliciting better extraction of chlorophyll — resulting in the intense green color. Mr. Matteigni also added that he gently filters his oil, a more debatable practice. His reasoning is that whatever backlash could potentially occur from filtering is far outweighed by the stability and longer shelf life of the oil. In the past he found the chemistry of his non-filtered oils changed in only a few months.  In a year they lost a drastic amount of color and intensity. The proof of the pudding is in the tasting—his olive oil is intense, fruity with a rich texture, and has a slightly bitter aftertaste. Exceptional.

 

 


Dining In Siena: Osteria Le Logge

Osteria Le Logge

33 Via del Porrione
Siena Italy 53100
PH (39) 0577 48013
Closed Sundays and for the month of January

Directions: Just off the campo; if facing the Palazzo Pubblico, walk to the left and you will find Via Porrione.

Le Logge is my favorite restaurant in the town of Siena. I have tried many other spots, but I keep coming back to Le Logge. It is busy with locals and travelers alike. The atmosphere has a buzz and can be noisy, but that is part of the charm. At lunch and dinner, people fill the restaurant and outdoor dining area along Via Porrione, just off of the Campo. Without pretense, dishes are based on local fresh ingredients, and the excellent wine list provides a wide selection of local wines plus whites from Northern Italy to pair with the excellent food.

The late entrepreneur and larger-than-life Gianni Brunelli and his wife, Laura Vacca, founded Le Logge in 1977, as well as Le Chiuse Di Sotto, a very good winery. Laura continues the tradition of quality in both. Mirco Vigni, the manager of Le Logge,  suggested the recipe below for a dish that epitomizes the restaurant’s philosophy of combining fresh ingredients in an appetizing yet simple fashion. As eloquently stated by Vigni, “the ingredients are the actors.” I think you will agree.

 LeLoggeSiena

Spaghetti Con Rigatino Di Cinta Senese, Cipolla Di Cannara e Pecorino

Spaghetti with Pancetta, Onion & Pecorino

Primo Piatto (First Course)

Servings: 6

1 pound spaghetti setaro (a semolina variety of pasta from Naples)

3/4 cup finely chopped Rigatino Di Cinta (not available in U.S. alternatively use organic Pancetta or Guanciale)

1/2 cup finely chopped vidalia onion

2/3 cup freshly grated aged pecorino

¾ cup vegetable broth

1 tablespoon olive oil

Diced chives to taste

Salt to taste

Boil a pot of water. Add salt at the boiling point. Using a paper towel, spread the olive oil over the surface of a large skillet. Sauté the pancetta and onions for 8–10 minutes on low-medium heat or until the onions are translucent.

Add the pasta to the boiling water when you begin to cook the pancetta. It will take approximately 8 minutes until the spaghetti is almost al dente.

Remove and drain the pasta in a colander and add directly to the skillet while it is still on a low flame. Add the grated pecorino and vegetable broth, and continuously stir until the broth has been absorbed and the pasta is coated in pecorino (no longer than a minute or two).

Toss the pasta with the chives, leaving some to sprinkle on individual plates. Enjoy!

 

Author’s Note: If you like spicy, add a pinch of black pepper when you add the vegetable broth. The spice combined with the nuttiness of the cheese and freshness of the chives is delicious.

 

Il Palio

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I have seen Il (the) Palio 9 times. The palpable combination of emotion, intensity, and history make it a unique spectator experience that never gets old.

Without the visual and auditory nuances of first-hand experience, it is difficult to convey the spectacularality. That said, try to imagine the Piazza Del Campo-the heart of Siena turned into a horse race track, where 8 inches of dense clay-like dirt covers the stone walkway that surrounds the center. The race consists of 3 laps which lasts approximately 90 seconds. The jockeys ride bareback at heart thumping speeds down an unven pitched track with several dangerous turns including a 90 degree bend where more often than not jockeys are thrown from their horses. And if the horse that finishes first comes in without a rider, that contrada still wins. The horse is the undoubetdly the star of the competition. The crowd is always at max capacity, including standing room only in the center and temporary stadium seating on the outer rim of the piazza. The atmosphere goes from absolute silence when the contrade are announced to a combination of screaming, crying, and jubilation.

The Palio serves as a metaphor for those born in Siena. Held every July 2 and August 16, this spectacle has a history that began centuries ago. It is a way of life all year round for those who relive the history that enfolds in the Piazza Del Campo of Siena twice a year.

Siena is a city of 17 contrade, or boroughs. The contrade held an important military and adminsitrative role in the middle ages, and now remains an opportunity to show civic pride and patriotism. All contrade take part in the processional of the Palio, but only 10 participate at a time in each Palio.

The horse is assigned to each contrada by lottery, and from the time each is assigned to the race, there is always a barbaresco, or caretaker, that watches over the horse, even to the extent of sleeping next to the animal. This is done to protect the horse from a competing contrada.

The winning contrada takes a flag, or palio, and the victoriuos horse is showered with hugs and kisses. However, if a contrada’s horse comes in second, or if a specific ‘enemy’ of a contrada wins even though that contrada may not be in the race, the members of that contrada can be seen openly sobbing.

The Palio is a passion that further unites an already tightly-knit society. From beginning of the display to the end of the race, when celebratory songs are sung by the winning contrada, there is symbolism of Siena’a past, reinforcing the unity of a people whom historically struggled to maintain their survival.

If you plan to visit Siena in early July or mid-August, Il Palio is a unique cultural experience, and an exciting addition to any itinerary. A knowledgeable guide is necessary when it comes to arranging tickets for the race, and/or attending any of the accompanying festivities.

The Province of Siena

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There are very few places in the world that offer the variety of landscape and gastronomic delights that distinguishes the province of Siena. The town of Siena is also the capital of the province, rich in artistic treasures, historic architecture, and one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations. While only one of the town’s restaurants makes my list of favorites, the geographically expansive province boasts some of the best winemakers, food artisans, and restaurants in the country.

The province of Siena breaks down into seven historical areas: the Alta Val D’Elsa, Chianti Senesi, Monterrigioni/Siena, Val Di Merse, Crete Senesi/Val D’Arbia, Val Di Chiana Senese, and Val D’Orcia/Amiata, as well as 36 communi (local governments), each defined by differing landscapes and agricultural bounty, including wheat, olives, grapes, and other fruit. The boundaries extend north of Siena to the rumpled green vineyards and olive groves of San Gimignano, to the woodlands of Castellina in Chianti. South of Siena one discovers the open farmland of the Crete Senesi and the famed winemaking district of Brunello Di Montalcino in the Val D’Orcia. It is hard to argue with the beauty of the region, especially the southern part of the province where the land around Pienza was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, limiting development.

The cuisine and restaurants are as varied as the landscape. Among the treats in store for you are marvelous goat cheese, fine pecorino (a sheep’s milk-based cheese), some of the best wines of Tuscany, intense olive oils, remarkable Cinta Senese charcuterie, and a dense concentration of great restaurants. Andiamo ragazzi!

The Town Of Siena

Siena is Florence’s historical rival, a late medieval town with picturesque stone-paved streets and one of the more scenic piazzas in Italy, the Piazza Del Campo. It is an intellectual’s playpen with so many architectural, artistic, and historic sites that ambitious touring—no mean feat along the steeply inclined streets—will quickly build your appetite. While Siena has many places to shop and eat, I have two favorite spots that should be part of everyone’s excursion: one to stock up and the other to caffeinate.

Culinary Treasures

Food Shopping
Antica Drogheria Manganelli
Via di Città 71-73, Siena
PH (39) 0577 280 002
Directions: Banchi di Sopra becomes Via Di Città when it abuts the Campo; continue up the street, and it is on your left.

This foodie treasure trove is perfect for the traveler who has rented a villa and intends to spend some time in the kitchen while on vacation. Alternatively, it is perfect for those who just want to munch on gourmet goodies and confections. My family and I have shopped there for years, and if you are close to Siena, you should too.

The shop itself is very attractive with antique glass and wood cabinets chock full of Tuscan goodies. Upon entering, aromas of freshly made desserts and spices stimulate the olfactory senses. There is a wide selection of premium olive oils, salami from the famous Falorni butcher shop in Greve in Chianti (known for its spectacular sausages), an excellent wine selection, freshly made artisanal pasta, desserts, and Amedei chocolates. The owners also make their own Panforte, a dense flat cake made with honey, hazelnuts, almonds, candied fruit, cocoa and spices—a specialty of Siena that is increasingly hard to find at this level of quality.

Author’s Note: A kilo, or kilogram is a bit more than 2 lbs, but if you want approximately a 1/4 pound, you can order with the phrase “Vorrei un etto,” or “due etti,” for about 1/2 a pound. Alternatively, depending on the product, you may be able to try it before purchasing by asking “Posso avere un assaggio?” meaning “May I have a taste?”

Coffee
Fiorella Torrefazione
Via Di Città, 13 Siena Italy
PH 0577 271255
www.Torrefazionefiorella.it

Whenever you witness Tuscans waiting on a line for coffee, you should take note.  Caffè, or coffee in Italy, better known to Americans as espresso, is an ingrained cultural staple that elicits little fanfare. Unlike the hipster coffee onslaught in the U.S, do not expect a heart or some kind of portraiture in your Cappuccino in Italy. The one commonality is that in both the U.S. and Italy, great espresso is not always so easy to find.

While you likely will not find it in any guidebooks, Fiorella Torrefazione is a clear exception to that general refrain. Years ago, I had an early meeting in Siena, and I saw a line of locals out the door to fit in the standing room only bar for a morning cappuccino.  I joined the fray. The bar itself is very unassuming, though elegant, and the coffee is sublime-at once, intense and flavorful, yet not bitter.

Given my surprise at the quality of this coffee in this tiny café, I struck up a conversation with the owner, Francesco, who explained that he sources and roasts his own beans, which you can buy onsite.  So, whether you are walking buy and need a quick pick-me up or your staying close-by and have the necessary accouterment for a home brew, this is your coffee mecca.

 

Stay Cool

With the advent of Daylight Savings and the arrival of cool weather in NYC, I was reminded that the summer has long gone. Fortunately, autumn has it’s own benefits, not least of which is a better restaurant (red) wine experience.

While, to a certain degree, optimal wine temperature is a matter of personal preference, there can be no disagreement that wine served too warm (or too cold) can ruin the experience. When it is eight-five degrees outside and a server selects a red wine from shelf halfway up the wall, chances are that wine is not the ideal temperature. There have been several occasions where upon asking a waiter to put a bottle of red wine on ice I have occasionally received sarcastic and/or puzzled responses, including the reminder that the wine is actually red. However, credit to those arbiters of good taste that grab the ice bucket posthaste with an affirming quick wink and a nod.  Clearly, those servers are treated to a glass and an outsized tip!

It is remarkable how the difference of a few degrees can affect one’s perception of wine quality.  Without burying you in details, younger, crisper wines like Sauvignon Blanc (or Beaujolais for reds) are better served on the cooler side, while Chardonnay (or Cabernet Sauvignon) are better served less cool, but there are even exceptions within those classifications.  Generally, if a wine is too cold, the aroma and flavor are often minimized so the wine’s texture might seem a bit more angular and a flavor profile lacking in complexity.  Conversely, when a wine is too warm, the aromas become muddled, and the alcohol can overwhelm the texture. While the right temperature for enjoying wine is somewhat subjective and can depend on grape varietal, there are no wines that taste good when they are too warm-that goes for both reds and whites, which makes wine service worst during the summer months.

A wine’s textural appeal involves the right balance of sweetness, sourness, and bitterness.  While that may sound like the simple result of fermented grape juice, wine is an incredibly complicated chemical concoction with a myriad of different organic acids, alcohol compounds, polyphenols (tannins), sugars, vitamins, and minerals.  At inappropriate temperatures, the sensation of balance becomes distorted.

Temperature does not only affect the palatability of wine, but also the flavor. The flavor of wine is not detected by taste buds, but by millions of olfactory senses in the nasal passage, which differ from person to person and even by gender (woman in general have a stronger sense of smell than men).

There are hundreds of various aroma compounds in wine, some of which are unique to specific grape varieties and others that are a byproduct of the fermentation and maturation process.  At the right temperature, these volatile compounds create a complex nose that depending on the person may detect subjective nuances.  However, if a wine is served at an inappropriate temperature the wine is objectively skewed, and can cause a fantastic wine to be unpalatable in the worst case, and less complex at its best.

Most restaurants refrigerate their whites, so there is less issue with white wine service. However, a surprising amount of fine dining restaurants do not store red wines at the optimal temperature (approximately 58 Degrees), which is not only detrimental to the integrity of the wine, especially during the Summer months, but is also a disservice to the consumer. Many imbibers (and even restaurateurs) do not realize the degree to which appropriate temperature affects the aroma, palate, and ultimately the potential enjoyment of wine.

While perfection is unattainable, I implore restaurants next Summer to stay cool, and allow the wine to warm up in the glass not least of which because it sends a message that they care about proper storage and respect of the provenance of the wines they serve.  As an added bonus, I can avoid the confused, snarky responses when I ask for Bordeaux on ice.

Poggio Antico

DSC00406 VISTA SU S.ANGELO

Poggio Antico is both a restaurant and a very good winery located outside of Montalcino. The first time I dined at Poggio Antico was for my 21st birthday. It was a boys’ day out of eating and drinking and touring wineries. However, it was a spur of the moment decision, and we spent much of the first half of the day driving and searching for some of my favorite wineries. At that time, many of the smaller wineries hadn’t caught on to the concept of tours, so we encountered a few disappointments. However, after a long morning, my father, my Uncle Matt, and I found Poggio Antico. We were tired, maybe a bit frustrated, and starved!

We drove up a long white road lined with cypress trees to arrive at Poggio Antico. The maitre d’ hotel Maurizio Tola greeted us. While Maurizio is no longer with Poggio Antico, and has gone on to explore his own opportunities, he was congenial, provided great service, and we later became good friends. We enjoyed a tasting menu that had creative takes using local, traditional ingredients and a 1985 Poggio Antico Brunello Riserva.

In conversation with the owner and founder of the restaurant Paola Gloder, she suggested a recipe for chicken liver parfait for this book, which made me smile because it took me back to my aforementioned 21st birthday dining experience. I remember when we asked Maurizio what we should try, he noted that people come from far and wide for the chicken liver parfait, which at the time made my father nervous: He knew my uncle (his brother) was such a picky eater that he did not even like seeing olives on the dinner table! However, to his surprise, my Uncle Matt was interested in it all, specifically the liver, and he finished every bit. The chicken liver parfait was the highlight of the meal, but the whole lunch was special. The service, wine, and company made my birthday a very special one, and the experience remains one of my fondest memories of my late uncle.

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